Laurie's maiden sock design--Zigzag cuff socks
Zigzag cuff sock--NOT YET CHECKED!!! Only the heel and toe need some "proofknitting", I believe. I also think that this pattern could serve as tube socks given the stretchiness of the stitch pattern....
Uses DK/sport weight yarn (approximately 121 yds per 50 g); two skeins of variegated yarn and one skein of contrasting solid color. Your mileage may vary depending on weight of the yarn and how tightly you knit. I used no. 3 needles--adjust accordingly for gauge, always remembering that this stitch is VERY stretchy and forgiving...
Gauge: 5 stitches per inch in pattern--you can stretch the pattern out a bit if you are looking for more stitch definition.
Cast on 48 stitches over three needles (16 stitches per needle or 2 repetitions of pattern per needle, though that will change rapidly!!!)
Start immediately in pattern stitch:
Row 1--*K1,P1,K1, p5* repeat from *
Row 2 (and all subsequent even numbered rows) knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches
Row 3--K1, P1, *K5, P1, k1, p1* Repeat from*; end k5, p1
Row 5--K1, *P5, K1, P1, K1* Repeat from *, end p5, k1, p1
Row 7--*K5, P1, K1, P1* repeat
Row 9--P4, *k1, p1, k1, p5* repeat from *; end k1, p1, k1, p1
Row 11--k3 * p1, k1, p1, k5* repeat from *; end p1, k1, p1, k2
Row 13 --p2 *k1, p1, k1, p5* repeat from *; end k1, p1, k1, p3
Row 15 --k1 * p1, k1, p1, k5* repeat from *; end k1, p1, k1, p1, k4
It looks complicated, but it is surprisingly easy to follow once you get the principle down--and the principle is obvious VERY soon.
Repeat in pattern until the cuff is your desired length. NOW the complex part--rearrange the stitches on your needles so they are as follows: 12, 24, 12.
Maintain the pattern! Start next round-- pattern on 12 stitch needle; pattern across 24 stitch needle, shift to contrasting waste yarn on 12 stitch needle and beginning 12 stitches in next round.
Continue in normal yarn (I just picked it up and left enough "lag" for weaving in.
Continue pattern in main yarn for 3-4 inches.
In order to get the foot the proper length, I did the afterthought heel early. Place the foot stitches on a new piece of waste yarn to hold them while you work.
Carefully undo the heel waste yarn, picking up the stitches on either side as you go. Add as well two extra stitches for each edge--one on each side. The key to getting the zigzag heel and toe is a double decrease at the edge. It helps to identify the corner stitch, so count the number of stitches you have picked up and made. It should be 52 (48 +4), but picking those stitches from the waste yarn puts you a half stitch off, so your no. may vary slightly. Not to worry. Just subtract 2 from your total (the corner stitches) and the divide what remains. 52-2= 50. Half of 50 is twenty-five stitches on either edge. Mark your two corner stitches with markers on either side and then redistribute your stitches as you wish onto three or four needles. The Garter heel is Knit one row, purl one row in alternating colors with the change at one corner.
ALWAYS DECREASE ON A KNIT ROW--that way it will not show! To start, Slip 1, Knit 2 tog in alternate color, Slide slipped stitch over knit together pair knit--behold your first corner stitch! Then knit the stitches across top of foot, decreasing at the second corner stitch as follows: Slip 1, Knit 2 tog, Slide slipped stitch over knit together pair. The ONE stitch you have now is your corner stitch. (Because you are ONLY doing this on the knit row the decreases are pretty much invisible--the ridges are clean and have a nice corner. ) Knit across the sole of the foot and switch to purl stitch at your new corner stitch. Purl one round. Repeat the preceding two rows in your main color, then your alternate color, until you reach the no. of stitches you want at the very end of the heel. I think I went a bit farther than I should have because I decreased until there were six stitches on each edge--I would say EIGHT stitches on each edge would make a better, more rounded heel--a matter of preference! I also did the heel on size 2s to make it denser and I now think THAT wasn't necessary.
Kitchener the heel stitches together.
Ready now to continue down the foot. Check length of foot carefully--this is stretchy stitch so the "turn" at the instep is smooth, but you can also easily think your foot is long enough when you need a bit more. However, it is quite forgiving so even the sock shown which is a bit short for me, fits fine stretched out a bit. It is a short toe, so beware.
A little more than an inch from the end of your foot, stop. You have 48 stitches on your needles now--48 minus 2 corner stitches equals 46--twenty three stitches each on the top and bottom of foot. Mark your two corner stitches with markers on either side and then redistribute your stitches as you wish onto three or four needles. (I used two needles but should have shifted to side stitch around more... three needles on the second sock!)
Same decrease strategy with one change--the shift to a new color occurs on the BOTTOM of the sock: To start, start with alternate color and knit to one stitch before the corner stitch, Slip 1, Knit 2 tog in alternate color, Slide slipped stitch over knit together pair knit--behold your first corner stitch! Then knit the stitches across top of foot, decreasing at the second corner stitch as follows: Slip 1, Knit 2 tog, Slide slipped stitch over knit together pair. The ONE stitch you have now is your corner stitch. (Because you are ONLY doing this on the knit row the decreases are pretty much invisible--the ridges are clean and have a nice corner. ) Knit across the sole of the foot and switch to purl stitch at the center of the sole. Purl one round. Repeat the preceding two rows in your main color, then your alternate color, until you reach the no. of stitches you want--eight is pretty much ideal. Kitchener the stitches together.
Weave in the ends you have left inside your sock, using them to reinforce corners and places where color changes occur. Use the cuff and your pattern is even more defined. Voila!