Morgan-38 Owners' Group
1998 Spring Newsletter, No.3
Editor's Corner
Welcome to the third issue of the Morgan-38 Owners' Group Newsletter. I had hoped to get out four issues this first year, but I'm afraid it will just be three. Look for the next issue during the summer and another in late fall.
The good news is that our membership is growing at a good rate and that a new feature on the Groups' web page has proven to be both popular and very useful. First the membership. As of late March we have 125 member boats, broken down as follows: M-382/60, M-383/14, M-384/26, Charley Morgan-38/19, and Cat-Morgan-38/6. A new member seems to come aboard every week or so, many via connection with our Web Page on the Internet. If you come across other Morgan-38s this summer, please tell them about the Owners' Group.
On January 16th, the M-38 Bulletin Board went operational on our web page, and posts to it have been regular and informative. Here's a selected list of topics that have been open for discussion so far: feathering propellers, centerboard cables, windlasses, grounds for SSB radios, cutter rigs, delamination problems, rudder design, water tank leaks, alternators, mast vibration, vangs and reefing systems, and conversion to propane. These postings are all still there so you can read what people have said and can add your own questions or comments.
One set of responses that I found particularly interesting resulted from a query by someone outside the Owners' Group who is considering purchasing an M-38. He wanted owners' opinions of their boats. Within a few days there were eight responses, all quite positive. One member commented: "The truth about boat shopping is that, all forms of rational analysis aside, when you find the right boat you'll know it. Seeing my M-382 for the first time is just like when I first met my wife-to-be, I couldn't take my eyes off her and could not imagine going through another day without her. I can stand on the dock for hours...not really able to take my eyes off the curve of her shear." One owner summed it up, "At this web site it would be hard to find someone to pass a negative thought. Of course if the M-38's weren't good boats, most of us wouldn't have owned then for all these years."
You can log onto the M-38 Bulletin Board by first going to the web site (www.colby.edu/personal/lsreich/morgan.html) then clicking on "M-38 Bulletin Board." [To speed use of the Board, you should be able to pull down a little menu at each listing to activate a command that says something like "New Window with This Link." Doing this significantly speeds reload of the Board after you have read the item.] If you don't have internet access readily available, you should know that many public libraries now provide the service with someone there to help you get started. Check us out!
A new item on the web site that I would call to your attention: photographs with accompanying description of modifications that one member did to his M-384--enclosed starboard pilot berth, conversion of the quarter berth to storage, a propane locker in the lazarette, and a windlass installation.
Enough of computers. Let's think about boats! Those of us in the Northeast U.S. are beginning to contemplate another sailing season. In my case, here in Maine, it will begin a little later than most anyone else's (early June, if I'm lucky with the weather). But it just may extend into middle fall, as my family and I take our M-383 "Watermusic" through the Cape Cod Canal in August enroute to the Chesapeake for late September and early October cruising. I hope to meet up with member boats along the way. Well, that's the plan. I'll keep you informed.
Thanks -- Lenny Reich
A Quality Cruiser
As part of its new "Classic Plastic" series, Cruising World magazine featured the article "Crunching Numbers For a Quality Cruiser" in its April 1998 issue. The author, John Holtrop, chose six variables by which sailboats were measured (maximum velocity, capsize risk, comfort factor, displacement-to-length ratio, sail-area-to-displacement ratio, and length overall). [There are complex formulas for the first three variables.] He applied a technique whereby boats were evaluated according to how close they came to the presumed ideal for each factor. (The technique is called "Fuzzy Logic.")
Of course, he had to choose the ideals and the acceptable ranges. For example, the ideal displacement-to-length ratio was set at 280-320, with an allowable minimum of 230 and a maximum of 370. Not everyone would agree with those numbers--many might think that the range and minimum were too high--but he argued that most highly regarded cruisers do, in fact, fall within the ideal ranges he set. (He had help from another sailor-number-cruncher in choosing and setting the variables.)
Beginning with a data base of more than five hundred boats, ranging from 22 to over 50 feet in length, Holtrop ran a computer program to generate what he called each boat's Degree of Compatibility--that is, its compatibility with the ideal. He did this three times, the second and third time tightening the ideal ranges further.
In the first go-round, the M-382 scored a perfect 1.00, along with nine other boats. (Holtrop did not consider the M-383 or M-384 separately, as their scores would be extremely close or identical to the M-382's). In the second round, the M-382 scored a 0.99, sixth on the list but a tiny-wisker from tying for first with 1.00. Boats in the running but scoring considerably lower were the Crealock 37 (0.79), Cambria 40 (0.74), Morris 38 (0.74), and Island Packet 37 (0.62)--all of which sell for several times the price of a Morgan 38. In the third round, the M-382 still held the sixth spot with a score of 0.59, ahead of the Morris (0.23) and Crealock (0.07), while the Cambria and Island Packet had dropped to zero.
What's to make of all this? Well, if you accept John Holtrop's choices of variables and his evaluation of their ideal values--and you'll have to read the article yourself to decide--it sure looks like the Brewer/Morgan is a great cruising boat and one heck of good value! But we knew that.
'Katrina's' First Decade
By Nicholas and Kathleen Newman
The original Morgan 38 was advertised in 1969. Like the earlier and similar M-41, it was offered in a `kit' version. We had been considering the 41 hull for backyard completion, but the 38 seemed ideal for our requirements. After a visit to see boats under construction, and talk with Charlie Morgan and his staff, we ordered the hull and deck moldings, with ballast engine mount, centerboard, rudder, and hatch moldings. For this package we paid about $10,000. The base price for a stock M38 was about $23,000. We did not expect to save money finishing our own boat, but we wanted the luxury of customizing it.
The history of `Katrina' can be divided into three periods: building, family cruising and racing (1970-80); a prolonged cruise to Europe (1981-87); and the `golden years' (1988-). I shall cover the first period in this article, with emphasis on modifications which might be of interest to other owners.
The interior was constructed of Bruynzeel mahogany plywood and teak. Special care was taken to bond the bulkheads to the hull, with much grinding to ensure a good secondary bond. Subsequently the two bulkheads amidships were also bonded to the underside of the cabin top to reduce flexing in this area. The main bulkheads are doubled outboard to take the load of the chainplates for the upper shrouds. Heavy fiberglass hat structures were laminated directly to the hull for the other chainplates. Each chainplate plus the backstay and stemhead fitting were grounded to the ballast and through-hull fittings using copper tubing.
The layout of the galley, quarterberth and chart table is similar to the stock design. In the main cabin we built pilot berths and extension berths on both sides, with a folding gimbaled cabin table on the centerline. Forward of the head we built a double berth to port, with a large sail locker underneath.
Since we are of medium height the cabin sole was raised three inches. In addition to providing a better view for the cook, this allowed space in the bilge for two fiberglass water tanks under the sole in the main cabin, and stowage for the storm anchor forward of the mast. Originally we installed two battery boxes beneath the sole in the galley, but prior to sailing trans-Atlantic one was replaced by an Edson diaphragm pump and a new box for two batteries was built under the quarterberth. The entire cabin sole is removable panels.
The aft support for the cabin table is a stainless stanchion extending from the cabin top to the centerboard trunk. The centerboard is controlled by a pair of Dacron lines passing through this stanchion, with a fiberglass sheave box and access port on top of the centerboard trunk. The lines lead aft to a recycled Barient reel winch next to the companionway. Only four turns are needed to raise or lower the board. The second line enables the board to be lowered completely while it is under load, a great advantage for racing. The Dacron pennants have been replaced every ten years or so, but they probably could last indefinitely. To alleviate lee helm in light air the centerboard can be lowered slightly beyond the vertical position.
With racing in mind the rig is two feet higher than the stock boat, and the original boom was a foot shorter, giving a higher aspect ratio to the mainsail. To lengthen the foretriangle base a welded stainless stemhead fitting was constructed to extend forward three inches from the bow, with integral cast chocks. This is bolted to both the deck and stem, and faired around the stem with fiberglass. To increase the rudder span fiberglass extensions were molded on the upper edge up to the counter, and on the lower edge flush with the keel. The lower extension was made with minimal strength so that it would break off in the event of grounding instead of damaging the rudder, but after 27 years it is still intact.
With conservative instincts we installed 5/16" standing rigging throughout, with symmetrical fore-and-aft lower shrouds, and small upper-intermediate shrouds to support the upper panel of the mast. Other modifications above deck included inboard tracks for the jib sheet leads, and a pedestal steering system mounted near the forward end of the cockpit. The original engine was a Westerbeke 4-107, which I brought home in the family station wagon from the old Westerbeke factory in Boston. At that time Morgan was one of their best customers.
Six opening portlights with aluminum frames were fitted after filling the adjacent void spaces between the cabin trunk and liner. Four fixed portlights aft were made from automobile safety glass with cast bronze frames. A midship hatch was made with teak coamings and a 5/8" acrylic lens, to give better light and ventilation in the main cabin. After a couple of years the stock acrylic forward hatch cracked, and we replaced it with a larger hatch of teak and acrylic. Both hatches were made with hinges to open both forward and aft, but we generally have used them opening aft with canvas dodgers fitted in wet conditions.
Just before launching we discovered water seepage out of the hole for the centerboard pin, which originated above the lead ballast. This was an unwelcome surprise, but in retrospect it was good to modify the pin arrangement at the outset, especially when we found that the hole had not been properly aligned. After removing the centerboard, a larger hole was bored through the keel and a fiberglass tube with the same inner diameter as the pin was inserted with epoxy. The portion of the tube inside the trunk was cut away, and set into the centerboard in a similar manner to provide a sealed bearing for the pin. The top surface of the ballast was faired and covered with glass to prevent further seepage.
`Katrina' was first launched in July 1970, for a short season of local cruising. As our family crew matured we broadened our horizons, cruising and racing in New England and Nova Scotia. High points of our racing days were several class wins at Off Soundings, Block Island Week and the 1979 Marblehead-Halifax Race. Before sailing to Nova Scotia we installed an Espar Diesel cabin heater outboard in the starboard cockpit locker, with a Charlie Noble on the aft deck. This was hardly used in Nova Scotia, but it turned out to be more useful a few years later when we were north of the Arctic Circle. After cruising East to the Bras D'Or Lakes, we began to think on the long beat home of sailing to Norway. Serious preparations got underway the following year.
Two more articles on the Newmans' experiences in 'Katrina' will follow. They live in Wayland, MA and sail out of Woods Hole. Nick can be reached at jnn@mit.edu.
Installing a Feathering Prop
By Ron Hoogewerf
In response to your request for information on installing a feathering prop on the Morgan 382/3/4, I installed the Max-Prop on my boat "Xanadu" in 1995 and have been thoroughly satisfied with the performance. The thrust is adjustable, and you may need to go to a different pitch to compensate for the different shape of the blades. My original prop was a 3-blade fixed 16"x11" (diameter x pitch). The blades were slightly cupped, as opposed to the Max-Prop, which are flat. I originally went to a 9.8 pitch, which allowed the engine RPM to increase to 2800 from 2400. My motoring speed dripped 1/4 to 1/2 knot, and I have just raised the pitch back to 11.
I normally motor at 1750, which gives a speed of 6.5 or 7 knots, depending on wind and waves. I have the Perkins 4-108 "new" engine built in 1983. I have a problem with black smoke residue collecting on the transom and so am experimenting with engine RPM to try to solve the problem. (I would appreciate any solutions in that respect.) By increasing RPM above 2000, I increase fuel consumption from 0.85 gallons per hour to 1.15. Improvement in sailing speed with the Max-Prop is elusive, but I would estimate it has increased 1/4 to 1/2 knot as compared to the fixed 3-blade.
In making changes to accommodate the fit of the Max-Prop, I consulted with Kevin Woody, president of PYI. He assured me that cutting 1/2 of the collar off the prop would not affect the prop's integrity. This was necessary to allow the prop to fit into the aperture opening and to miss hitting the rudder when the blades went from forward to reverse. The shaft needed to be shortened by about 3.75 inches for the same reason. This allowed about one inch of shaft to be exposed between the forward end of the prop and the cutlass bearing. This was not sufficient to install a zinc on the shaft, so I had to rely on the zinc on the prop. (It is integral and part of the installation procedure). Also, it is necessary to leave this one inch to allow the cutlass bearing to get enough water to lubricate it, unless you would like to inject water into the shaft log to keep it lubed. This is possible either by putting scoops on the skeg to collect water or injecting it from inside the engine compartment via the cooling system discharge.
I have observed that each Morgan is a little different. The shafts exit at different areas of the skeg. Some do not exit at the widest point. I have also seen different engine angles and different engine heights in the engine compartment. All these factors will affect the exact dimensions you will have to work with. In my own instance, I have 2.5" blade tip clearance on the top and 4" on the bottom. To eliminate cavitation from the blades being too close to the hull, the absolute minimum should be 15% fo the blade diameter, which on a 16" prop would 2.4".
Another possible adjustment to the installation would be to cut off the stern tube (the tube the cutlass bearing fits into) approximately 1/4". This allows more shaft to be exposed. Some boats have up to to 1/2" of this tube exposed. If this is cut, you will have to re-tap the set screws that hold the cutlass from rotating. To remove the shaft you will have to remove the rudder. This is also quite involved as you will have to have approximately 24" to 30" of room below the rudder to drop it out of the boat. The rudder shaft on "Xanadu" is 24" long, and the steering quadrant also has to be removed from the shaft. This is not difficult but it is time consuming. Probably the most difficult part of the change is the removal of the gudgeon halves that mount the rudder shaft. Do not attempt it without an impact wrench. I am aware of another boat that had to drill the bolts out, then re-install the gudgeon with nuts on the end of longer bolts. The bolts have been set with 3M 5200 and are very difficult to remove.
As I said before, each boat is different, and the critical measurements of each will have to be determined. I believe that I have covered all the aspects involved.
Passage Notes
Reprinted from "Cruising World," Feb.1998
Canadians Geoff Stevenson and 19-year-old son Brad completed a four-month cruise last summer from Neah Bay, Washington, to Tahiti and back, aboard their Morgan 383 Pilgram V. Before heading offshore, Geoff replaced all the standing rigging, converted the boat to a cutter rig, strengthened the lower rudder bearing, and added a windvane.
The toughest leg of the trip was the 2,500 miles from Bora Bora to Hilo, Hawaii. It took 20 days--all on starboard tack, and almost all of it on the wind. Hurricanes Felicia and Guillermo were uncomfortably close on this passage, but eventually swung north, giving the Stevensons 20-foot seas for several days. One of the trip's highlights was a sailors' potluck dinner on Ua Pou in the Marquesas attended by crews from 17 boats representing four countries.
Geoff's advice to others thinking of going offshore: "Don't be seduced into thinking you need a state-of-the-art boat," he said. "A well-designed and strongly-built older boat will do the job just fine, but don't skimp on the equipment." With good gear that he installed himself, and lots of spare parts, Geoff figured he could fix just about anything that could break en route--but nothing did!
Geoff lives in Brentwood Bay, British Columbia, and sails out of Victoria, B.C. He has written a detailed description of his trip for the Newsletter, and it will appear in two installments, beginning next with the next issue.
Bulletin Board Interchange
I would like to at least double the fuel capacity of my 382 to make her "longer legged" under engine power. I figure that 40 to 50 gal. of fuel would fit in a port/starboard pair of tanks under the v-berth (against the head and hanging locker, respectively), but I'm concerned about trim, etc. Is there a better place to locate the fuel? I've scratched my head long enough about this. Any thoughts or recomendations would be welcomed.
On my 382, I placed 2- 23 gal. water tanks(flexiable) behind the opening doors under the veeberth. Those in addition to the starbd. 55 gal gives about 100 gals of water. There's an area slightly forward of this that I have calculated will hold a 15 to 25 gal fuel tank. If you use the port settee area you lose valuable storage space. With the 46 gal of water, 200 ft. 5/16 high test chain, 250 rode and 50 ft chain, 45# CQR and a 33# Bruce, the sits and rides fine. Have you removed the lead from under the veeberth?
After reading your post, I checked under my V berth for a lead plug. There was a screwed down access panel way up by the pointy end which I removed, only to find a large patch of what appeared to be resin. Would the lead be encapsulated under this resin? I want to install elect. windlass and all chain rode which will require removal of this lead.
There's about 70 lead ingots embedded in the resin and with safety glasses, a mallet, and a chiesel you can get them out.